Black walnut

Juglans nigra

also called american walnut, eastern black walnut

The native walnut: a huge, valuable, long-lived nut and timber tree with a rich, wild-tasting crop, and a chemical shadow underneath it that decides what the rest of the garden can be.

Light Full sun
Water Moderate
Hardiness Hardy
USDA zones 4a–9a
Height 20–30 m
Spread 65 ft 7 in
Spacing 15 m
Sow depth From a nut or a young tree; the taproot resents moving
Root depth 24 in–5 ft
Type
Tree · Perennial
Botanical family
Mixed / other
Foliage color
Green
Flower color
Green
Sunlight
Full sun
Watering
Moderate
Soil
Deep, rich, moist, well-drained
Feeding
All-purpose balanced
USDA zones
4a–9a
Frost tolerant
Yes
Plant out
30 days before the last spring frost
First harvest
240 days after the last spring frost
Harvest ends
30 days after the first fall frost
Plant spacing
49 ft 3 in
In-row spacing
39 ft 4 in
Between rows
59 ft 1 in
Square-foot density
Not suited to SFG
Sow depth
2 in
Root system
Woody, with a taproot it keeps
Working depth
24 in–5 ft
Can reach
10 ft down where the soil allows
Spread
98–164 ft across, about 1.5–2.5× the width of the plant

It anchors downwards as well as sideways, which is what lets it stand in a gale and what makes it hate being moved. Plant it small: past a few years in the ground a taprooted tree transplants badly, and often not at all.

The most notorious juglone producer of the lot. Tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, apples, blueberries, rhododendrons and lilacs will not grow within the root zone, which extends well past the branch tips and stays poisoned for years after felling.

The habit is Black walnut’s own; the figures are what that habit usually comes to at this size, not a measurement of this species. Roots follow the soil either way: a compacted pan, a high water table or heavy clay stops them well short of any of it, and deep open ground lets them go further.

Cats
Confirmed safe
Dogs
Recorded toxic

Recorded non-toxic to cats by ASPCA.

Recorded as toxic to dogs by ASPCA.

We say a plant is safe only where a named poison-control reference names that exact species and records it as non-toxic to both cats and dogs. Most plants are on nobody’s list, and their absence here is not a judgement about them. This is a record of what those references say, not veterinary advice, and it cannot account for your own animal, the quantity eaten, or a plant treated with anything.

The strongest divergent row in the file: one source, one entry, cats on its non-toxic line and dogs on its toxic line. Not an absence on one side but an opposite finding, which is why the card names the two animals on separate rows with their own attributed sentences.

More about plants and pets

When
Nuts from late September, when they thud down green; get them up within days.
What to look for
Husks yellow-green and yielding slightly. On the ground a week, the husk blackens and the stain goes into the kernel.
How to harvest
Wear old clothes and rubber gloves; the stain defeats soap. Stomp or roll the husks off, wash the nuts, then dry them in shell somewhere airy for two weeks before cracking, which takes a vise, a hammer or the proper cracker; a nutcracker from the kitchen drawer will lose.
How often
Daily pickups through the drop, racing the squirrels.
Storing the crop
Cured nuts keep a year in shell somewhere cool; shelled kernels go rancid at room temperature, so freeze them. The hulls dye anything they touch a permanent brown, which crafters count as a second harvest.

Beneficial predators that hunt this plant's pests — grow their favourite flowers nearby to recruit them. companion plant

  • Assassin bug Reduviidae

    A patient ambusher with a curved beak it drives into whatever it catches — caterpillars, beetles, bugs, and the occasional bee, so count it a generalist rather than a specialist. It will jab a careless finger too, so admire it and leave it be.

  • Bats Chiroptera

    A single bat takes hundreds of moths and mosquitoes in a night, and the moths are the parents of your cutworms, corn earworms and hornworms. Put up a bat box on a warm south wall, leave a night-scented corner unlit, and never spray after dark.

  • Big-eyed bug Geocoris spp.

    A stubby 3 mm bug with enormous wrap-around eyes, working the soil surface and the low foliage for aphids, mites, thrips and insect eggs. It is the main natural check on chinch bugs in a lawn and it is killed outright by insecticide.

  • Damsel bug Nabidae

    A slender, mantis-armed bug that grabs aphids, small caterpillars, and thrips in low crops and meadowy edges. Leave a strip of unmown grasses and flowers for it to overwinter in.

  • Garden birds Passeriformes

    Both things are true: birds strip your currants and a brood of blue tits takes several thousand caterpillars out of one fruit tree in a fortnight. Net what you must and welcome them everywhere else — a nest box near the apples is worth more than a spray.

  • Green lacewing Chrysoperla carnea

    Its bristly larvae — "aphid lions" — impale aphids, mealybugs, thrips, and mite colonies, eating hundreds a week. Adults feed on nectar and pollen from small open flowers and overwinter in hollow stems left standing.

  • Hedgehog Erinaceus europaeus

    A European animal, and worth saying so plainly: there are no hedgehogs in North America, and the ally that does the same night shift here is the toad, the opossum or the ground beetle. Where they do occur, cut a gap in the fence and skip the pellets.

  • Minute pirate bug Orius spp.

    A pinhead-sized true bug that is the best natural check on thrips, and happily spears aphids, mites, and insect eggs too. It needs pollen when prey is scarce, so keep something flowering nearby.

  • Parasitic wasps Braconidae & Trichogramma

    Tiny, stingless wasps that lay eggs in or on caterpillars, aphids, and moth eggs — the white cocoons riding a hornworm are their calling card, so leave that caterpillar be. Umbel flowers with shallow nectar keep the adults fuelled.

  • Praying mantis Mantidae

    A sit-and-wait ambusher that snatches caterpillars, beetles, and anything else that wanders close — friend and foe alike, so count it a mixed blessing. Tall, structured plantings give it perches and egg-case anchors.

  • Snakes & lizards Colubridae & Phrynosomatidae

    A garter snake works the beds for slugs and voles and a fence lizard clears grasshoppers off a sunny wall. Almost every snake a gardener meets is harmless and useful; give them a log pile, a warm flat stone and a bit of cover and they stay.

  • Soldier beetle Cantharidae

    Soft-winged beetles seen mating on flower heads in high summer; adults and larvae both take aphids and soft grubs. Open composite flowers are their landing pads and hunting grounds.

  • Spiders Araneae

    Webs, ambushes, and night patrols make spiders the garden’s steadiest generalist predators, taking whatever flies or crawls past. Mulch, ground cover, and undisturbed corners keep the population dense.

    Plant nearby LavenderThyme
  • Spined soldier bug Podisus maculiventris

    A predatory stink bug — same shield outline as the pest, but with a sharp spine at each shoulder and a beak it uses to spear caterpillars and beetle grubs. Learn the spines before you squash a shield bug, because this one is on your side.

  • Tachinid fly Tachinidae

    Bristly, house-fly-lookalike parasitoids that lay eggs on caterpillars, beetle grubs, and earwigs — the maggot consumes the host from within. Adults sip nectar from shallow umbels and daisies.

Veneer buyers walk farms looking for good ones: a single straight trunk can be worth thousands of dollars standing. Plan the garden around the juglone: tomatoes, peppers, apples and blueberries fail within its root zone, while beans, corn, squash and most natives do not mind it.