Apple

Malus domestica

Orchard mainstay — chives at the trunk are said to fend off scab.

Light Full sun
Water Moderate
USDA zones 3a–8b
Height 2–5 m
Spread 13 ft 1 in
Spacing 3–5 m
Sow depth Deep

Spacing & sowing

Plant spacing
13 ft 1 in
In-row spacing
11 ft 6 in
Between rows
16 ft 5 in
Square-foot density
Not suited to SFG

Calendar (from your frost dates)

Plant out
at the last spring frost
First harvest
150 days after the last spring frost
Harvest ends
at the first fall frost

Growing

Type
Fruit · Perennial
Botanical family
Mixed / other
Sunlight
Full sun
Watering
Moderate
Soil
Deep, fertile, well-drained
Feeding
A balanced feed in spring, followed by potash through the summer.
USDA zones
3a–8b
Frost tolerant
Yes
Flowering
April
Pruning
Prune in late winter, working toward an open goblet of branches.

Through the year

  • Apr–Apr Bud Break
  • Apr–May Flowering
  • May–Aug Fruit Set
  • Aug–Sep Harvest
  • Sep–Oct Growing
  • Oct–Dec Leaf Fall
  • Jan–Apr Leaf Fall

Harvest

When
Late July (earliest varieties) to late October (long-keeping storers); most maiden trees crop in 3–5 years (2–3 on dwarfing rootstocks like M27/M9). Early varieties don't store; late varieties often need weeks in store to reach full flavor.
What to look for
The classic test: cup the apple, lift and twist a quarter-turn — a ripe fruit parts from the spur with its stalk intact, without pulling. Ground color turns from green to yellow, pips inside are dark brown, and the first sound windfalls appear. Taste one: crisp, juicy, and sweet for the variety.
How to harvest
Lift-and-twist, never yank (tearing the spur removes next year's fruit buds). Keep the stalk on — a lost stalk opens a rot entry point. Use a long-handled picker or tripod ladder for tall trees; lay fruit gently in a padded basket, never drop.
How often
Two or three passes per tree over 1–3 weeks — fruit on the sunny side and outside of the canopy ripens first. Pick storers slightly underripe but mature.
Storing the crop
Early apples: eat within days to a couple of weeks. Late keepers (e.g. Bramley, Fuji, russets): wrap individually in paper or lay unwrapped, not touching, in slatted trays in a cool (3–7°C), frost-free, mouse-proof place; sound fruit keeps 3–6 months. Store only unblemished fruit and check regularly — one rotten apple genuinely does spoil the barrel. Bruised/windfall fruit goes to juice, cider, sauce, or the freezer as stewed apple.

Companions

Chives, Nasturtiums, Comfrey, Clover

Garden allies

Beneficial predators that hunt this plant's pests — grow their favourite flowers nearby to recruit them. companion plant

  • Bats Chiroptera

    A single bat takes hundreds of moths and mosquitoes in a night, and the moths are the parents of your cutworms, corn earworms and hornworms. Put up a bat box on a warm south wall, leave a night-scented corner unlit, and never spray after dark.

  • Green lacewing Chrysoperla carnea

    Its bristly larvae — "aphid lions" — impale aphids, mealybugs, thrips, and mite colonies, eating hundreds a week. Adults feed on nectar and pollen from small open flowers and overwinter in hollow stems left standing.

  • Ladybird (lady beetle) Coccinellidae

    The gardener’s favorite ally: adults and their alligator-shaped larvae each eat thousands of aphids, plus scale, mealybugs, and other soft-bodied sap-suckers. Grow flat, open flowers for the adults and never spray a colony that ladybird larvae are already working.

  • Parasitic wasps Braconidae & Trichogramma

    Tiny, stingless wasps that lay eggs in or on caterpillars, aphids, and moth eggs — the white cocoons riding a hornworm are their calling card, so leave that caterpillar be. Umbel flowers with shallow nectar keep the adults fuelled.

Did you know?

Apple pips don't grow true to type, so every named variety is propagated by grafting.