Magnesium deficiency
Yellowing between the veins of older, lower leaves while the veins themselves stay green — common on tomatoes and after heavy feeding.
What you'll see
- Yellow or bronzed patches between the veins, with the veins remaining green
- The oldest, lowest leaves show it first, working upward as it spreads
- Affected areas may turn orange, red or purple then brown and die
- Fruit and overall growth are little affected at first, unlike nitrogen shortage
Why it happens
Magnesium is central to chlorophyll, and the plant robs its old leaves to feed new growth when supply runs short — which is why the lowest leaves yellow first. Heavy potassium feeding is a common trigger, as potassium competes with magnesium at the roots and blocks its uptake.
Common on tomatoes and pot plants given repeated high-potash tomato feed, on light sandy or acid soils where magnesium washes out, and after a wet winter leaches it away. It shows up more in a fast-growing crop under glass.
Treating it
- Spray leaves with a dilute Epsom salts solution for a quick top-up on visibly affected plants
- Ease back on high-potash feeds until the plant recovers
- Apply Epsom salts to the soil around long-term plants in spring
- Do not expect Epsom salts to fix unrelated problems — it only helps a genuine magnesium shortage
Keeping it away
- Balance feeding rather than relying heavily on high-potash tomato feed
- Add magnesium-containing ground rock or garden lime to acid soils that are prone to it
- Improve light sandy soils with organic matter to hold nutrients against leaching
- Keep watering even, since drought slows uptake of magnesium as well as calcium
Who gets it
Tomatoes are the usual sufferers, along with apples, grapes, roses and potted plants on a high-potash diet.
See also
The Cottage Garden Companion — the gardener's apothecary at cottagegardencompanion.com