Chestnut blight
Cryphonectria parasitica
The disease that erased the American chestnut from four billion trees to almost none. Orange-buff cankers girdle the trunk; the roots live on and sprout, and are struck again.
What you'll see
- A sunken or swollen orange-buff canker on the trunk or a limb, often cracked, with the bark loose over it.
- Fans of buff-colored fungal tissue under the loosened bark, visible when a flap is lifted.
- Pinhead orange pustules studding the canker, extruding orange spore tendrils in wet weather.
- Leaves above the canker wilting, browning and hanging on the branch through winter rather than dropping.
- Sprouts coming up from a living stump or root collar, growing for a few years, and then cankering in their turn.
Why it happens
A fungus introduced from Asia around 1904 on nursery stock. It enters through wounds in the bark, grows in the living tissue just beneath, and girdles the stem. Asian chestnuts co-evolved with it and shrug it off; the American chestnut had no resistance at all, and lost some four billion trees in fifty years. The root systems mostly survived, which is why the species persists as a permanent understory shrub.
Throughout the natural range of the American chestnut in the eastern United States and beyond. European chestnut is intermediate in susceptibility; Chinese and Japanese chestnuts are essentially resistant.
Treating it
- There is no practical treatment for a garden tree. Remove dead wood for safety and let the roots sprout.
- Do not move chestnut wood or nursery stock out of an affected area.
- A mud pack over a small canker on a valued tree can slow it, and is worth trying on a single stem, but it is not a cure.
- Hypovirulence — a virus of the fungus itself that weakens it — is used in research and has been patchily successful in Europe; it is not something to attempt in a garden.
- Support the breeding programs rather than trying to save one tree; the answer to this disease is a resistant tree, and it is being made.
Keeping it away
- Plant Chinese chestnut, or a Dunstan-type American-Chinese hybrid, if you want nuts and a tree that lives.
- Avoid wounding the bark of any chestnut, since wounds are the only way in.
- Do not import or move chestnut planting stock between regions.
- Keep a young tree unstressed, well watered and open-grown; vigorous trees wall cankers off for longer.
- Report American chestnuts that are surviving and flowering in a blighted area; they are exactly what the breeders are looking for.
Who gets it
American chestnut above all, then European chestnut, chinkapin and — very lightly — Chinese and Japanese chestnut. Post oaks are occasionally affected.
See also
The Cottage Garden Companion — the gardener's apothecary at cottagegardencompanion.com