Pear

Pyrus communis

Long-lived orchard tree — nasturtium lures its codling moth aside.

Light Full sun
Water Moderate
USDA zones 4a–8b
Height 3–6 m
Spread 13 ft 1 in
Spacing 3–5 m
Sow depth Deep
Root depth 24 in–5 ft
Type
Fruit · Perennial
Botanical family
Mixed / other
Foliage color
Green
Flower color
Yellow
Sunlight
Full sun
Watering
Moderate
Soil
Deep, fertile, well-drained
Feeding
A balanced spring feed, going easy on the nitrogen.
USDA zones
4a–8b
Frost tolerant
Yes
Flowering
April
Pruning
Winter-prune free-standing trees, and summer-prune the trained forms.
Plant out
at the last spring frost
First harvest
160 days after the last spring frost
Harvest ends
at the first fall frost
  • Mar–Apr Bud Break
  • Apr–May Flowering
  • May–Sep Fruit Set
  • Sep–Oct Harvest
  • Oct–Oct Growing
  • Oct–Dec Leaf Fall
  • Jan–Mar Leaf Fall
Plant spacing
13 ft 1 in
In-row spacing
13 ft 1 in
Between rows
16 ft 5 in
Square-foot density
Not suited to SFG
Root system
Woody, with a taproot it keeps
Working depth
24 in–5 ft
Can reach
10 ft down where the soil allows
Spread
20–33 ft across, about 1.5–2.5× the width of the plant

It anchors downwards as well as sideways, which is what lets it stand in a gale and what makes it hate being moved. Plant it small: past a few years in the ground a taprooted tree transplants badly, and often not at all.

The habit is Pear’s own; the figures are what that habit usually comes to at this size, not a measurement of this species. Roots follow the soil either way: a compacted pan, a high water table or heavy clay stops them well short of any of it, and deep open ground lets them go further.

When
August to October depending on variety; trees crop in 4–6 years (sooner on quince rootstock). Crucially, pears are almost always picked mature-but-hard and ripened off the tree — tree-ripened pears go mealy and brown at the core.
What to look for
Pick when the fruit is full-sized, the skin has lightened slightly, lenticels (skin dots) turn brown, and the pear comes away with the lift-and-twist test — tilt it horizontal and it should snap free at the stalk. It will still feel rock hard: that's correct. Ripeness for eating is judged later by gently pressing the flesh beside the stalk — it yields when ready (the base can still be firm).
How to harvest
Lift the pear to horizontal and twist gently; keep the stalk attached. Handle like eggs — pears bruise invisibly and rot from the bruise in store. Long-arm pickers for tall standards.
How often
One or two passes per variety over about a week; early varieties (e.g. Williams) all come at once, later keepers can be staggered.
Storing the crop
Ripen indoors at room temperature over 4–10 days (a banana alongside speeds it); check the neck daily — pears go from perfect to sleepy in about a day. To hold them, keep picked-hard fruit in a cold place (near 0–4°C) and bring batches indoors to ripen as needed; late varieties like Conference and Concorde keep 1–3 months this way. Excess poaches, bottles, and dries well.

Beneficial predators that hunt this plant's pests — grow their favourite flowers nearby to recruit them. companion plant

  • Bats Chiroptera

    A single bat takes hundreds of moths and mosquitoes in a night, and the moths are the parents of your cutworms, corn earworms and hornworms. Put up a bat box on a warm south wall, leave a night-scented corner unlit, and never spray after dark.

  • Parasitic wasps Braconidae & Trichogramma

    Tiny, stingless wasps that lay eggs in or on caterpillars, aphids, and moth eggs — the white cocoons riding a hornworm are their calling card, so leave that caterpillar be. Umbel flowers with shallow nectar keep the adults fuelled.

Clover, Nasturtiums, Tansy, Borage

Pears ripen best off the tree — pick them firm and let them soften indoors.