Hardy kiwi

Actinidia arguta

also called kiwiberry, arctic kiwi, tara vine

A vigorous vine carrying hundreds of smooth grape-sized kiwis you eat skin and all — and it survives temperatures that would kill a fuzzy kiwi outright.

Light Full sun
Water Moderate–high
Hardiness Hardy
USDA zones 4a–8b
Height 6–10 m
Spread 13 ft 1 in
Spacing 3–5 m on a very strong frame
Sow depth From a plant

Spacing & sowing

Plant spacing
9 ft 10 in
In-row spacing
8 ft 2 in
Between rows
13 ft 1 in
Square-foot density
Not suited to SFG

Calendar (from your frost dates)

Plant out
at the last spring frost
First harvest
150 days after the last spring frost
Harvest ends
14 days after the first fall frost

Growing

Type
Fruit · Perennial
Botanical family
Mixed / other
Sunlight
Full sun
Watering
Moderate–high
Soil
Rich, deep, free-draining, slightly acid
Feeding
All-purpose balanced
USDA zones
4a–8b
Frost tolerant
Yes

Harvest

When
About five years from planting for the first crop, with fruit ripening in early autumn, roughly 150 days after flowering.
What to look for
The fruit is still firm but the seeds inside a cut sample have turned black, and a few fruits have started to soften on the vine. They will not sweeten properly if picked before the seeds blacken.
How to harvest
Pick the whole cluster by hand — the fruit is smooth-skinned and eaten whole, so handle it gently. Take the crop in one or two passes before a hard frost.
How often
One or two picks in September.
Storing the crop
Refrigerate the firm fruit for up to two months, then bring out a few at a time to soften at room temperature for a day or two. Fully ripe fruit lasts about a week.

Garden allies

Beneficial predators that hunt this plant's pests — grow their favourite flowers nearby to recruit them. companion plant

  • Aphid midge Aphidoletes aphidimyza
    Hunts Aphids

    A tiny midge whose orange maggots paralyze aphids and drink them dry, twenty or more each. Sold as a greenhouse biological control and resident outdoors wherever there are small nectar flowers and an unsprayed aphid colony to find.

  • Assassin bug Reduviidae
    Hunts Aphids

    A patient ambusher with a curved beak it drives into whatever it catches — caterpillars, beetles, bugs, and the occasional bee, so count it a generalist rather than a specialist. It will jab a careless finger too, so admire it and leave it be.

  • Big-eyed bug Geocoris spp.
    Hunts Aphids

    A stubby 3 mm bug with enormous wrap-around eyes, working the soil surface and the low foliage for aphids, mites, thrips and insect eggs. It is the main natural check on chinch bugs in a lawn and it is killed outright by insecticide.

  • Damsel bug Nabidae
    Hunts Aphids

    A slender, mantis-armed bug that grabs aphids, small caterpillars, and thrips in low crops and meadowy edges. Leave a strip of unmown grasses and flowers for it to overwinter in.

  • Dragonflies & damselflies Odonata
    Hunts Aphids

    Aerial hunters that take mosquitoes, midges and small flies on the wing all day, and whose larvae spend a year or more clearing the same insects from the water. A pond with planted margins and no fish is the way to have them.

  • Garden birds Passeriformes
    Hunts Aphids

    Both things are true: birds strip your currants and a brood of blue tits takes several thousand caterpillars out of one fruit tree in a fortnight. Net what you must and welcome them everywhere else — a nest box near the apples is worth more than a spray.

  • Green lacewing Chrysoperla carnea
    Hunts Aphids

    Its bristly larvae — "aphid lions" — impale aphids, mealybugs, thrips, and mite colonies, eating hundreds a week. Adults feed on nectar and pollen from small open flowers and overwinter in hollow stems left standing.

  • Hoverfly Syrphidae
    Hunts Aphids

    Bee-mimicking flies whose legless larvae graze aphid colonies clean while the adults pollinate. A ribbon of shallow, nectar-rich flowers kept in bloom all season recruits wave after wave of them.

  • Ladybird (lady beetle) Coccinellidae
    Hunts Aphids

    The gardener’s favorite ally: adults and their alligator-shaped larvae each eat thousands of aphids, plus scale, mealybugs, and other soft-bodied sap-suckers. Grow flat, open flowers for the adults and never spray a colony that ladybird larvae are already working.

  • Minute pirate bug Orius spp.
    Hunts Aphids

    A pinhead-sized true bug that is the best natural check on thrips, and happily spears aphids, mites, and insect eggs too. It needs pollen when prey is scarce, so keep something flowering nearby.

  • Parasitic wasps Braconidae & Trichogramma
    Hunts Aphids

    Tiny, stingless wasps that lay eggs in or on caterpillars, aphids, and moth eggs — the white cocoons riding a hornworm are their calling card, so leave that caterpillar be. Umbel flowers with shallow nectar keep the adults fuelled.

  • Praying mantis Mantidae
    Hunts Aphids

    A sit-and-wait ambusher that snatches caterpillars, beetles, and anything else that wanders close — friend and foe alike, so count it a mixed blessing. Tall, structured plantings give it perches and egg-case anchors.

  • Soldier beetle Cantharidae
    Hunts Aphids

    Soft-winged beetles seen mating on flower heads in high summer; adults and larvae both take aphids and soft grubs. Open composite flowers are their landing pads and hunting grounds.

  • Spiders Araneae
    Hunts Aphids

    Webs, ambushes, and night patrols make spiders the garden’s steadiest generalist predators, taking whatever flies or crawls past. Mulch, ground cover, and undisturbed corners keep the population dense.

    Plant nearby LavenderThyme

Did you know?

You need a male vine for every six or eight females, and the vine is heavy enough to pull down a flimsy pergola — build the support before you plant.