Flowering maple

Abutilon × hybridum

also called abutilon, parlor maple, chinese lantern, callianthe

No maple at all but a soft-wooded mallow: maple-shaped leaves and papery lanterns that nod open for months, planted in the ground in the mildest zones and kept in a big pot everywhere else.

Light Full sun where summers are mild; morning sun and afternoon shade where they run hot
Water Moderate to high; evenly moist, and a pot in July may want a drink every day
Hardiness Half-hardy
USDA zones 8a–10b
Height 1–1.5 m in a pot; 2.5–3 m in frost-free ground
Spread 3 ft 3 in
Spacing 75–120 cm in the ground
Sow depth From a container plant, at the depth it sat in the pot
Root depth 12–24 in
Type
Shrub · Perennial
Botanical family
Mixed / other
Foliage color
Green
Flower color
Orange
Sunlight
Full sun where summers are mild; morning sun and afternoon shade where they run hot
Watering
Moderate to high; evenly moist, and a pot in July may want a drink every day
Soil
Rich, moist and well-drained; a good potting mix in a container
Feeding
Rose & flower
USDA zones
8a–10b
Frost tolerant
No
Pruning
Cut back by about a third in early spring. It flowers on new growth and turns into a few long bare stems if it is left alone, so pinch the tips of a young plant too.
Plant out
14 days after the last spring frost
Plant spacing
2 ft 11 in
In-row spacing
2 ft 6 in
Between rows
3 ft 11 in
Square-foot density
Not suited to SFG
Root system
Woody and fibrous
Working depth
12–24 in
Can reach
3 ft down where the soil allows
Spread
5–6.5 ft across, about 1.5–2× the width of the plant
Shallowest pot
20 in of soil

A shallow woody framework with the fine feeding roots in the leaf litter above it. Those feeders are mostly under the outer half of the canopy rather than against the stem, which is where water and feed should go.

The habit is Flowering maple’s own; the figures are what that habit usually comes to at this size, not a measurement of this species. Roots follow the soil either way: a compacted pan, a high water table or heavy clay stops them well short of any of it, and deep open ground lets them go further.

When
Not harvested. The job is a hard cut in early spring as new growth starts. Below zone 8, a pot also comes indoors before the first frost and gets a light trim to fit the window.
What to look for
Long bare stems with a tuft of leaves at the tips and flowers thinning out mean it is overdue. Nights falling toward 5°C are the sign to bring a pot in; leaf drop in the first week indoors is the move and not a death.
How to harvest
Cut stems back by about a third with clean hand pruners, just above a leaf joint, keeping an open framework. Pinch the tips of young plants through their first summer so they branch. Cut any green shoot out of a variegated plant at its base.
How often
One real prune a year and a few pinches through the season. Feed and water often while it is blooming, and little over a cool winter.
Storing the crop
Nothing to store. It winters as a plant: a bright window at about 10–15°C, kept on the dry side and watched for whitefly. Soft tip cuttings taken in late summer root easily and are cheap insurance.

Beneficial predators that hunt this plant's pests — grow their favourite flowers nearby to recruit them. companion plant

  • Assassin bug Reduviidae

    A patient ambusher with a curved beak it drives into whatever it catches — caterpillars, beetles, bugs, and the occasional bee, so count it a generalist rather than a specialist. It will jab a careless finger too, so admire it and leave it be.

  • Big-eyed bug Geocoris spp.

    A stubby 3 mm bug with enormous wrap-around eyes, working the soil surface and the low foliage for aphids, mites, thrips and insect eggs. It is the main natural check on chinch bugs in a lawn and it is killed outright by insecticide.

  • Dragonflies & damselflies Odonata

    Aerial hunters that take mosquitoes, midges and small flies on the wing all day, and whose larvae spend a year or more clearing the same insects from the water. A pond with planted margins and no fish is the way to have them.

  • Garden birds Passeriformes

    Both things are true: birds strip your currants and a brood of blue tits takes several thousand caterpillars out of one fruit tree in a fortnight. Net what you must and welcome them everywhere else — a nest box near the apples is worth more than a spray.

  • Green lacewing Chrysoperla carnea

    Its bristly larvae — "aphid lions" — impale aphids, mealybugs, thrips, and mite colonies, eating hundreds a week. Adults feed on nectar and pollen from small open flowers and overwinter in hollow stems left standing.

  • Ladybird (lady beetle) Coccinellidae

    The gardener’s favorite ally: adults and their alligator-shaped larvae each eat thousands of aphids, plus scale, mealybugs, and other soft-bodied sap-suckers. Grow flat, open flowers for the adults and never spray a colony that ladybird larvae are already working.

  • Minute pirate bug Orius spp.

    A pinhead-sized true bug that is the best natural check on thrips, and happily spears aphids, mites, and insect eggs too. It needs pollen when prey is scarce, so keep something flowering nearby.

  • Parasitic wasps Braconidae & Trichogramma

    Tiny, stingless wasps that lay eggs in or on caterpillars, aphids, and moth eggs — the white cocoons riding a hornworm are their calling card, so leave that caterpillar be. Umbel flowers with shallow nectar keep the adults fuelled.

  • Praying mantis Mantidae

    A sit-and-wait ambusher that snatches caterpillars, beetles, and anything else that wanders close — friend and foe alike, so count it a mixed blessing. Tall, structured plantings give it perches and egg-case anchors.

  • Spiders Araneae

    Webs, ambushes, and night patrols make spiders the garden’s steadiest generalist predators, taking whatever flies or crawls past. Mulch, ground cover, and undisturbed corners keep the population dense.

    Plant nearby LavenderThyme
  • Aphid midge Aphidoletes aphidimyza
    Hunts Aphids

    A tiny midge whose orange maggots paralyze aphids and drink them dry, twenty or more each. Sold as a greenhouse biological control and resident outdoors wherever there are small nectar flowers and an unsprayed aphid colony to find.

  • Beneficial nematodes Steinernema & Heterorhabditis spp.

    Microscopic worms watered onto damp soil that hunt down soil-dwelling grubs and release a bacterium that kills them within days. Timing is the whole thing: warm, damp soil and a small target grub, which means late summer for most of what they are used against.

  • Damsel bug Nabidae
    Hunts Aphids

    A slender, mantis-armed bug that grabs aphids, small caterpillars, and thrips in low crops and meadowy edges. Leave a strip of unmown grasses and flowers for it to overwinter in.

  • Hoverfly Syrphidae
    Hunts Aphids

    Bee-mimicking flies whose legless larvae graze aphid colonies clean while the adults pollinate. A ribbon of shallow, nectar-rich flowers kept in bloom all season recruits wave after wave of them.

  • Soldier beetle Cantharidae
    Hunts Aphids

    Soft-winged beetles seen mating on flower heads in high summer; adults and larvae both take aphids and soft grubs. Open composite flowers are their landing pads and hunting grounds.

  • Spined soldier bug Podisus maculiventris

    A predatory stink bug — same shield outline as the pest, but with a sharp spine at each shoulder and a beak it uses to spear caterpillars and beetle grubs. Learn the spines before you squash a shield bug, because this one is on your side.

  • Tachinid fly Tachinidae

    Bristly, house-fly-lookalike parasitoids that lay eggs on caterpillars, beetle grubs, and earwigs — the maggot consumes the host from within. Adults sip nectar from shallow umbels and daisies.

The leaf is the only thing it shares with a maple. It is kin to hollyhock, hibiscus and okra, and botanists have moved most of the garden kinds from Abutilon to Callianthe, a change the plant tags have largely ignored. Victorian households kept it indoors, hence its other old name of parlor maple, and hummingbirds work the hanging bells outdoors.